Best Insulation Materials For Arizona
Written by Barrier Insulation

Best Insulation Materials For Arizona

If you own a home in Arizona using the best insulation material is an important element of staying energy efficient.  Summer’s skyrocketing temperatures force homeowners to run their AC all day and night to keep occupants comfortable.  Cheap insulation materials work for some situations while investing in higher performance insulation options makes sense for many home owners.  Read more about your insulation options that work best for Arizona in this post.

The Best Insulation Saves You Money!

FiberglassWoolCellulosePlasticNaturalPolystyrene
PolyisocyanuratePolyurethaneSchedule

This means that you’re using much more electricity during the summer.  The best insulation materials will lower your electricity usage and help save money on your utility bills.

Best Insulation Materials For Arizona

There are many types of insulation materials, bulky fiber type materials include rock, slag wool, fiberglass, natural fibers and cellulose, to more rigid foam boards or sleek foil. Each have a different purpose. The bulky materials are able to resist conductive heat, and to a point convective heat flow within the building. Whereas, rigid foam boards are used for trapping air or gases while resisting conductive heat flows.

Choosing the Best Insulation Is Easy With Barrier Insulation Inc.

Radiant barrier or foils that are highly reflective are used in reflective insulation systems and radiant barriers for reflecting heat from the area, which makes them useful for cooling. Although, less common materials include phenolic foam and cementitious, perlite and vermiculite.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass, also spelled fiber glass, is fabricated using fine glass fibers. It is the leading insulation materials and commonly used for two various insulation types: loose-fill and blanket (batts and rolls). It also comes in rigid duct and board insulations.

Today, manufactures are able to produce high and medium density fiberglass batting insulation providing R-values a bit higher than a standard batt product. This denser product is intended to be used with insulation where cavity space is limited, like a cathedral ceiling.

A high density fiberglass batting that is fabricated for a 2-inch by 4-inch (51mm x 102mm) stud-frame wall provides an R-15 value, whereas low density offers R-11. Meanwhile, medium density batting provides R-13 for the same area. The high density batting fabricated for a 2-inch by 6-inch (51mm x 102mm) framed wall offers R-21 value, and the high density batting for 8.5-inch (216mm) areas offer around R-30. However, when designed for 12-inch (304mm) areas, it can have an R-38 value.

Safe Modern Fiberglass Insulation

There is an unconventional fibrous insulation which uses two forms of glass, fusing them together.

When these two type of materials cool in the manufacturing process, it forms random curling material that could be less irritating, and potentially safer to handle. In addition, it does not require a chemical binder or holding the batting together, and has a perforated plastic sleeve to help with the handling of the product.

Whereas, fiberglass loose-fill insulation gets fabricated using molten glass that is blown or spun into usable fibers. The majority of manufactures use 20-30% recycled glass. The process requires an insulation blowing machine to apply loose-fill insulation, using either a closed-cavity application (i.e those found in covered attic floors or inside the wall), or open-blow applications (attic spaces). Want to learn more on areas to insulate?

Another type of loose-fill fiberglass insulation is the Blow-In-Blanket System (BIBS). This is blown-in dry, with testing indicating BIBS insulated walls have a significantly higher quality fill compared to other forms of fiberglass insulation, such as batting.  There is a more recent economical hybrid system called BIBS HP, combining spray polyurethane foam with BIBS system.

Mineral Wool Insulation Materials

Mineral wool is a term commonly referring to two forms of insulation materials:

Slag wool, which is a material fabricated using blast furnace slag, which is the scum on molten metal surfaces.

Rock wool, which is a material constructed of natural minerals such as diabase or basalt.

On average, mineral wood consists of 75% post-industrial recycled contents. Additional chemicals are not required to provide fire resistance, and it tends to be available as loose-fill insulation or blanket (rolls/batts).

Cellulose Insulation Material

Fabricated from recycled paper product, cellulose insulation is mostly made from newsprint, with a high amount of recycled material, commonly between 82% and 85%. First, the paper is shredded and fiberized to create a product which can be tightly packed in the cavities of a building, while inhibiting airflow and offering R-values between 3.6 to 3.8 per inch.

There are times when manufactures add borate, blended using less expensive ammonium sulfate for ensuring insect and fire resistance. Usually, cellulose insulation does not require a moisture barrier, and with proper density installations, is unable to settle within the building cavity.

Cellulose Is Considered Eco-friendly and Inexpensive

Cellulose insulation applications are used for new and older homes, while loose-fill applications are applied to attics and packed into cavities like cathedral ceilings and walls. Within existing structure, the installation requires removing strips of exterior siding at waist height, drilling three inch holes into stud bays. This creates an entry for positioning a special tube at the top of the cavity for blowing insulation. Usually, the density is applied at 3.5lb per cubic foot. Afterwards, holes are sealed using a lug and the siding is placed back with necessary touch ups to match the wall.

Within new construction, cellulose applications can be installed dry behind netting or damp-sprayed. Damp-spray applications add a little moisture at the spray tip to activate the natural starches within the product to adhere properly. This type of application tends to be ready to cover within 24hrs. If celluloseis applied dry, it is held behind netting with staples.

Plastic Fiber Insulation Material

The majority of plastic fiber insulation is created with recycled plastic, such as milk containers (PET/polyethylene terephthalate). These fibers form into batting insulation, similar to that of a higher density fiberglass insulation.

Plastic fiber insulation is treated to be fire resistant, although it will melt when exposed to extreme heat it reduces risk of bursting into flames.

Plastic fiber insulation has R-values that vary based on batt density and ranges from R-3.8 per inch for 1lb/ft3 density, to R-4.3 per inch for 3lb/ft3 density. Also, plastic fiber is considered non-irritating, but batts have been reported as challenging t cut and handle using standard tools. In many areas of the U.S, plastic fiber insulation may not be available.

Natural Fiber Insulation Materials

There are natural fibers, such as sheep’s wool, cotton, hemp, and straw used for insulation material.

Cotton

Consisting of 85% recycled cotton with 15% plastic fibers, cotton insulation is treated using borate for adding insect, rodent and flame resistance, similar to that of cellulose insulation. There is a product using recycled blue jean trimmings. This enables the manufacturer to reduce energy. Cotton insulation can be found in batts with R-value of R-3.4 per inch. Also, cotton insulation is nontoxic and can be installed without the use of skin or respiratory protection. Although, it can cost up to 20% more than fiberglass insulation.

Sheep Wool

There are times sheep wool is applied as insulation, also treated using borate for pest and fire resistance. Sheep wool is able to hold larger water quantities, making it an advantage in some areas. Although, repeatedly getting wet and drying eventually reduces the effectiveness of the borate. The R-value or thermal resistance of sheep wool batting is roughly R-3.5 per inch, similar to fiber types.

Straw

Straw was a popular insulation type over 150 years ago in the Great Planes of the U.S. There has been recent interest in straw insulation as bales of straw were tested by the Oak Ridge National Laboratory resulting in R-values ranging R-2.4 to R-3.0 per inch. However, there are claims that R-2.4 is more representative due to the gaps of stacked straw bales.

The straw fusing process constructs boards without adhesive, introduced during the 1930s. Generally, panels are 2-inch to 4-inch (5mm to 102mm) thick with a heavyweight kraft paper on either side. While the R-value claims vary between manufacturer, the realistic range is R-1.4 to R-2.0 per inch. Straw constructed boards can be used to absorb sound, and some manufactures use multi-layered and compressed straw to develop structural insulated panels.

Hemp

Not commonly used in the U.S, hemp insulation is relatively unknown. However, it has an R-value of 3.5 per inch, similar to that of other fiber insulations.

Polystyrene Insulation Materials

Polystyrene is a transparent and colorless thermoplastic often used with making bead board or foam board insulation, some loose-fill insulation constructed of small polystyrene beads and concrete block insulation.

Molded expanded polystyrene (MEPS) is often used with foam board insulations and can be found as small foam beading. Polystyrene bead are available as a pouring insulation for hollow cavities and concrete blocks, offering a lightweight option that has the ability to withstand static electricity charge. However, they are known for being challenging to control.

There are polystyrene insulationmaterials that are similar to MEPS, including extruded polystyrene (XPS) and expanded polystyrene (EPS). Both of these are created using polystyrene, however, EPS is conducted using small, fused plastic beads. Meanwhile, XPS starts as molten material pressed into sheets. It is common for XPS to be used as foam board insulation, while EPS is often constructed in blocks. Both XPS and MEPS are commonly used with insulation of structural insulation panels (SIPs), and insulating concrete forms (ICFs).

Polystyrene foam board’s R-value or thermal resistance varies based on the density, ranging from R-3.8 to R-5.0 per inch. However, polystyrene bead or loose-fill insulation tends to have a lower R-value of R-2.3 per inch.

Polyisocyanurate Insulation Material

Polyisocyanurate, also known as polyiso is a type of thermosetting plastic, which is a closed cell foam containing a low conductivity hydrochlorofluorocarbon free gas. The gas has a high thermal resistance providing the insulation material a range of R-values between R-5.6 to R-8 per inch.

The polyiso insulation is available in liquid, rigid foam board, or spray foam. In addition, it can be used to fabricate laminated insulation panels with various facings available. Whereas, a foamed in-place application tends to be cheaper compared to foam board installation, and performs better due to the liquid foam molding to cavity surfaces.

In time, Polyisocyanurate insulation’s R-values can decrease when portions of the low-conductivity gases escape, being replaced by air. This is referred to asthermal drift. However, experimental data has shown the majority of thermal drift happens in the first two years after manufacturing the insulation. For instance, if insulation initially had R-value of R-9 per inch, within two years it may drop to R-7 per inch with no further change unless damaged.

Plastic and foil facings on rigid polyiso foam panels are able to aid in stabilizing R-values. Tests have indicated stabilization of R-value on rigid foam with metal foil facings were unchanged after 10-years. In addition, if properly installed to face open air spaces, reflective foil is able to act as a radiant barrier. Based on the overall orientation and size of air space, this may provide an additional R-2 to thermal resistance. Foil facing panels have stabilized R-values ranging between R-7.1 and R-8.7 per inch.

There are manufactures which use Polyisocyanurate for structural insulated panels (SIPs). Although, liquid or foam board may be used when fabricating SIPs. A liquid foam is able to be injected between wood skins with extreme pressure. When foam hardens, it provides a powerful bong between the wood skin and foam. Typically, Polyisocyanurate based thickness are as follows:ceiling panels are 7.5-inches (190mm) and wall panels are 3.5-inches (89mm). Although these panels cost more, they have higher water vapor-diffusion and fire resistance compared to EPS. Additionally, they provide improved insulation per thickness, on average 30-40% better.

Polyurethane Insulation Materials

Polyurethane foam insulation material has cells with low conductivity gases. The gas provides a high thermal resistance, providing polyurethane insulation material a range of R-values between R-5.5 and R-6.5 per inch.

In addition, polyurethane foam insulations can be purchased in open-cell and closed-cell form. The closed-cell foam provides a higher density cell that is closed and filled with gas to assist with the expanding of foam to fill cavity spaces. Whereas, open-cell foam is less-dense, filled with air and provides a spongy texture to the insulation, but has a lower R-value.

Like with the R-value of polyiso foam, the closed-cell polyurethane insulation’s R-value may reduce over a period of time as air replaces the low-conductivity gases that escape due to thermal drift. The majority of thermal drift happens within the initial two years after fabrication.

Plastic and foil facings are available on rigid polyurethane foam panels which assist in the stabilization o R-values reducing thermal drift. When properly installed facing open air space, reflective foil is able to act as a radiant barrier. Based on the orientation and size of air space, an additional R-2 may be added to the thermal resistance. Foil facing panels have an average stabilized R-value of R-6.5 per inch.

Polyurethane Or Spray Foam Is The Highest Performance

Polyurethane insulation can come in rigid foam board, or liquid spray. It may be fabricated as a laminated insulation panel, with various available facings.

Generally, foamed in-place or sprayed polyurethane insulation applications are less expensive compared to foam boards. In addition, the performance is often better due to the liquid foam being able to mold to cavity surfaces. All of the closed-cell polyurethane foam insulations manufactured are now produced using non-HCFC (hydrochlorofluorocarbon) gas.

Open-cell polyurethane foams have a lower density and use air, rather than gas, for the blowing agent with an R-value around R-3.6 per inch and do not change. While this type of foam is similar to that of conventional polyurethane foam, it provides higher flexibility. There are varieties of low-density foam that use carbon dioxide (CO2) for the foaming agent.

A low density foam is applied by spraying into cavity spaces, then quickly expanding to fill and seal the space. There are also slow expanding foams available, commonly used within existing homes. Liquid foam slowly expands to reduce risks of wall damage due to overexpansion. The foam remains flexible and water vapor permeable. It is also resistant towards moisture. With a good air seal, this type of foam offers R-values about R-3.6 per inch, while being fire resistant.

There are also polyurethane liquid spray foams available which are soy-based. Cured R-value is roughly R-3.5 per inch and this type of foam uses the same equipment for application as petroleum-based polyurethane foam.

There are manufacturers that use polyurethane for structural insulated panels (SIPs). Liquid or foam board can be fabricated as SIPs. In addition, liquid foam is able to be injected within layers of wood skins using extreme pressure. Once the foam hardens, it develops a powerful bond between skin and foam. Typically, polyurethane based products have the following R-values per thickness: ceiling panels are 7.5-inches (190mm) thick, wall panels are 3.5-inches (89mm) thick. Although they cost more, this type of insulation panel provides better water vapor diffusion and fire resistance compared to EPS. Additionally, they provide better insulation with an average of 30-40% more per thickness.

Perlite and Vermiculite Insulation Materials

Perlite and vermiculite insulation materials are common attic insulation found in homes built prior to 1950. Because vermiculite insulation could contain asbestos, it is not a common insulation material used today. Although, asbestos is in all vermiculite according to the United States Environmental Protection Agency. Trace amounts of asbestos have been found in a few vermiculite sources, but if you have vermiculite insulation in the attic – leave it alone!

If you are wanting to add more insulation to the attic, you should have an insulation contractor with the experience and certification to work with vermiculite insulation and asbestos. This is for the safety of you and your family.

Perlite and vermiculite contain pellets that are small and lightweight, fabricated using heated rock pellets to the point they pop. This results in a form of loose-fill insulation that provides thermal resistance up to R-2.4 per inch. The pellets are poured in place or may be mixed in cement to fabricate lightweight concrete that is les heat-conductive.

Urea-Formaldehyde Foam Insulation Material

Urea-formaldehyde (UF) insulation foam was commonly used in homes build between the 1970s and into the 1980s. Although, because of improper installations leading to various health-related court cases, this type of foam insulation was banned for use in residential buildings. Additionally, it has been discredited due to the shrinkage and formaldehyde emissions. Today, it is mainly used with masonry walls in industrial and commercial buildings.

Urea-formaldehyde foam insulation has an R-value around R-4.6 per inch. Compressed air is often used for a foaming agent, because nitrogen-based UF foam insulation can require many weeks of curing. In addition, UF foam does not expand much, unlike polyurethane insulation. Furthermore, water vapor is able to pass through easily, and prolonged exposure to temperatures above 190°F (88°C) can deteriorate it. Also, it is not fire resistant.

Cementitious Foam Insulation Material

Cementitious insulation is cement-based foam material that is applied using a foam in-place or sprayed method. Air krete is one sprayed foam insulation, containing magnesium silicate and provides an R-value around R-3.9 per inch. Initially, it has a consistency that’s similar to that of shaving cream. It is pumped in enclosed cavity spaces. With similar cost to that of polyurethane foam insulation, cementitious is nonflammable and nontoxic, fabricated from minerals such as magnesium oxide that are obtained from sea water.

Phenolic Foam Insulation Material

Years ago, Phenolic (Phenol-formaldehyde) insulation foam was a popular option in the form of rigid foam boards. However, currently it is only available with a foamed in-place application.

Phenolic foamed in-place insulation uses air for the foaming agent and provides an R-value around R-4.8 per inch of thickness. Phenolic foam provides one major disadvantage, it is able to shrink nearly 2% once cured, this has made it less popular.

Insulation Facings

During the process of manufacturing, facings get fastened to the insulation material. Facings are added to protect the surface of an insulation, holding insulation and building components together. There are some facing types that act as air barrier, vapor barrier, and/or a radiant barrier. Some facings add flame resistance to the material.

Some of the commonly used facing materials today include white vinyl sheets, kraft paper, and aluminum foil. Each material acts as a vapor barrier and air barrier. However, aluminum foil provides the added benefit of acting as a radiant barrier. The type of facing used for insulation installations in your home depends on the climate in your region, determining which barrier or facing, if any you may need.

There are some insulation facing materials that can be separately installed to offer a vapor barrier, radiant barrier and/or air barrier.

Schedule Insulation Installation in Phoenix

If you are looking for the best insulation materials for Arizona installed by the best insulation contractors, Barrier Insulation is at your service.  We have numerous 5 star reviews, countless satisfied customers, and the best energy saving insulation options for your home or office.  We proudly serve every city in the Phoenix Valley including: Phoenix, Mesa, Chandler, Scottsdale, Glendale, Gilbert, Tempe, and more.  If you are tired of paying out the nose for keeping your living space or office comfortable, contact the insulation professionals at Barrier Insulation today!

Call Today To Start Your Insulation Installation – 602-499-2922

Cellulose Insulation Vs Fiberglass
Written by Barrier Insulation

Cellulose Insulation Vs Fiberglass

If you are searching Google for “Cellulose Insulation vs Fiberglass” this post will help you understand the differences and which might be better for your home.  Anyone interested in saving money on energy should install insulation or upgrade insulation.  Insulation will help keep your home cooler in the summer and warmer in winter.

Side-By-Side Comparison of Fiberglass & Cellulose Insulation

Fiberglass and cellulose insulation are the two cheapest insulation types you can install in your home.  While fiberglass is much more common cellulose is still the second most popular insulation material in the country.  For customers who can’t afford the higher performance spray foam insulation these types of insulation offer the layer of insulated comfort homes need.

Insulation Similarities

People search for which is better between cellulose insulation and fiberglass as they do have a lot of the same performance, cost, and ease of installation.

Cost Of Insulation

One hard decision is that the two types of insulation have a similar cost.  If one is cheaper than the other it makes the decision for a lot of homeowners.  But with the price point being so similar it takes a little research to make sure you’re getting your money’s worth.  When compared to all other types of insulation both fiberglass and cellulose insulation are on the most affordable.

Installation Difficulty

Both types of insulation are easy for a contractor to install with the right training and equipment.  Some homeowners do the job themselves but don’t get the full value of the insulation as it can be tricky to install correctly to avoid voids in the job or air leaks from loosely attached fiberglass batts.

Blown-in cellulose insulation does take about a single extra finger being lifted to install it.  An insulation blowing machine is required and some training is involved.

Air Gaps & Cracks

No matter how good the contractor is all homes will have some gaps and cracks that lead to air leaks.  This is only made more prominent over years of age on a home as it settles and these air leaks get bigger. Neither of this insulation options seal these gaps or cracks.  The only insulation that effectively seals air leaks is spray foam insulation.

R-Value Performance

One very similar element between cellulose insulation and fiberglass is their insulation R-value performance rating.  When installed correctly they both offer around 3.5 to 3.7 R-value per inch.  If there is settling or other issues such as wind-washing it can affect these performance numbers.

Wind Washing

With loose blown-in insulation strong winds can move insulation around on the floor of an attic.  Homes that have attic vents can end up having uneven insulation in the attic and problems with under insulated areas of the home.

Moisture

Both types of insulation absorb water very easily, but also dry quickly as they have high air permeability.  If there is a vapor barrier in the attic along with moisture it can lead to mildew or even mold.  So care must be taken when there is roof leads and yearly roof inspections help prevent damage to the insulation in your attic and walls.

Insulation Differences

While the two insulations do have a lot in common, there are some important difference to keep in mind when choosing an option for your home.

Flammability

No one wants to think about the possibility of fire in their home, but it is a reality for many unfortunate homeowners.  It might seem like cellulose would be the worse choice as it is made of recycled paper.  The reality is that cellulose has become an great inexpensive fire retardant insulation option.  Fiberglass simply melts in high heat, but the kraft paper it is mounted on does burn.  Cellulose is now made with about 15% fire retardant borax nitrate, boric acid, or ammonium sulfate.  In this element modern cellulose insulation takes the win for keeping homes safer.

Air Leaks

Cellulose insulation is applied a loose fill insulation and does settle into some of the tighter areas.  While neither insulation creates a true air leak barrier; cellulose insulation does take the win for helping restrict some of the air leaking from or into your home.  This can also help preserve indoor air quality as it will help reduce some of the allergens from getting into your home.

Cellulose Insulation vs Fiberglass Winner

While it’s up to each homeowner to choose cellulose insulation does have an edge on air leaks and flammability.  As they have a similar cost many homeowners seeking a new insulation option should consider cellulose insulation for improving the comfort and energy efficiency of their home.

Phoenix Insulation Contractor Service

Whether you prefer cellulose insulation or fiberglass insulation our team here at Barrier Insulation will help you keep your home more comfortable and energy costs down.  We are happy to provide all of the most popular and effective insulation options to Phoenix Valley homeowners and businesses.  We welcome you to discuss your property’s needs with us and allow us to find an option that’ll fit your budget.

Call to find out more about insulation installed 602-499-2922

Fiberglass Insulation R Value
Written by Barrier Insulation

Fiberglass Insulation R Value

If you’re searching for “Fiberglass Insulation R Value” you’re probably like many homeowners who want to know they’re making the best decision in which type of insulation to install in their home.  Whether you’re building new or replacing old insulation knowing the R Value or performance of each insulation type helps ensure you’re spending your money smart.

R Values For Fiberglass Insulations

Fiberglass insulation comes in two forms, batts and loose fill.  Batts are typically sold in rolls of paperbacked fiberglass insulation which are stapled up to hang between attic rafters or wall studs.  Loose fill fiberglass insulation is installed via a blowing machine and is either installed on the attic floor or inside a netting system that holds it in between roof rafters or wall studs.

Loose Fill Fiberglass Insulation R Value

Depending on the product and brand you are considering the exact R Value will vary for loose fill fiberglass insulation.  The R Value also depends upon an adequate layer of insulation being laid on the attic floor or installed in the voids of your roof and walls.  R Values for loose fill fiberglass insulation vary between 2.2 and 2.9 [1]

The biggest key to this type of insulation is installing an even layer which is thick enough to do the job.  Many times it takes a professional with experience to create the correct depth and even layer necessary to insulate a home.  Fiberglass batts do have a significantly higher R Value performance in comparison to loose fill fiberglass insulation.

Rolled Batt Fiberglass Insulation R Value

Depending on the brand and product you buy the insulation R Values for fiberglass rolled batt will vary.  With that said the range of R Values for fiberglass rolled batt insulation are typically between 2.9 and 3.8 per inch [2].

Rolled batt fiberglass insulation is the traditional insulation type that most people think of when you mention insulation.  It is installed by using heavy duty staple guns to secure the paper backing to the edges of studs and rafters.  It is well suited to wide open regular spaces but struggles to insulate in odd shaped tight corners and odd areas.  While it is still widely used, there are higher performance insulation alternatives such as spray foam insulation.

Fiberglass Insulation R Value Comparison

While fiberglass insulation is a great option for a lot of homes and businesses there are higher performance insulation products available. As we know from above fiberglass insulation R Values land approximately between 2.2 and 3.8 per inch.  Spray foam insulation products vary depending on chemical make up yet range from 3.6 to 8.0 [3].

Clearly spray foam can offer dramatically higher R Values when compared to fiberglass insulation.  In addition spray foam insulation is the only option which seals cracks and gaps in your property’s construction.  This characteristic of spray foam is a secondary yet critical difference and benefit.  When spray foam expands into these gaps and cracks it seals air leaks.  There is no other type of insulation that provides air leak sealing.

Phoenix Valley Insulation Installation

No matter what type of insulation you choose for your home or business Barrier Insulation is here to help!  Our professional team of insulation contracts will help you install the best insulation solution for your home, office, or commercial location.  For more information about how we can help you insulate to stay comfortable and keep your utility costs down please call 602-499-2922.

Citations
  1. “Insulation R-Value.” Today’s Homeowner, www.todayshomeowner.com/insulation-r-value/.
How Radiant Barriers Work
Written by Barrier Insulation

Insulation 101: How Radiant Barriers Work

Most homeowners are familiar with rolls of pink fiberglass insulation or even spray foam insulation but don’t know what radiant barriers are, or how radiant barriers work. This post is meant to define what a radiant barrier is and how it helps keep your home cooler during the summer.  With rising electricity prices reducing cooling costs by saving energy is on everyone’s mind.

What Is A Radiant Barrier?

A radiant barrier is a highly reflective material which reflects radiant heat.  This is in contract to traditional insulations which absorb heat instead of reflecting it.  This means that the heat radiating down from the sun reflects off of the radiant barrier material and away from the home.  Doing so can dramatically reduce heat gain and reduce load on the air conditioning.

Radiant barrier is designed for benefit during the summer at rejecting heat but does not insulate conduction heat transfer.  Conduction heat transfer is best handled by traditional insulation methods such as spray foam insulation.

How Does Radiant Barrier Work?

Heat moves from warm to cold by three methods, either: convection, conduction, or radiation.  Convection is when a gas or liquid such as the air in our home is heated, becomes less dense, and then rises.  Conduction is when heat travels from a hot location to a cooler location through a material.  A good way to picture this is when a spoon in a hot drink and the heat travels from the part of the spoon in the cup to the end of the handle.

Traditional insulations seek to slow conductive heat down.  Much like the insulation in an insulated coffee mug tries to keep the heat in your coffee or hot coco.  These insulations slow the heat being conducted through attics, roofs, and walls. Radiant barriers differ in that they aren’t thick layers of insulation but highly heat reflective thin layers of foil or paint.  The best radiant barriers are those that are installed facing an air space and in such a fashion to minimize dust settling on it.

Hot Sun, Hot Attic, Hot home

As the sun heats our roofs it is the radiant energy from the sun that makes the roof hot.  A large portion of this heat travels by conduction through your tile or shingles, then roof decking, and into the attic side of the roof.  The hot roofing material then radiates that heat into the attic.  The air, floor, and ducts are heated from the radiant heat coming from hot roof materials.

Radiant barrier insulation’s job is to reflect this heat away from the attic floor, attic air, and duct systems.  It is most effective when it is perpendicular to the direction that energy is hitting it.  It is also worth mentioning that radiant barrier offers the best benefit the greater the temperature difference between the two sides.

Benefit Of Radiant Barrier

Radiant barrier isn’t something that has much affect in places like the north where summers are fairly mild.  It has its greatest benefit in sunny and hot climates such as Arizona and the rest of the southwest.  In fact some studies have shown that in hot climates homes using radiant barrier can save between 5% and 10%.  This means you may be able to use a smaller air conditioner or at least use it less.

Radiant Barrier Installation

If you want to install radiant barrier in the Phoenix Valley, Barrier Insulation can help.  Our team understands the Valley of the Sun and how to make homes as energy efficient as possible.  We can show you how adding a radiant barrier could save you as much as 5% to 10% on your cooling energy costs.

If you’d like to learn more about how we can help
please give us a call at 602-499-2922 today!

How To Stay Warm Without A Heater
Written by Barrier Insulation

Saving Energy: How To Stay Warm Without A Heater

If you’re searching for “How to stay warm without a heater” the power is out or you’re just looking for a way to save on your monthly energy during the winter.

Whether you are low on money, a college student, or frugal, if you are staying in a cold home, then you understand that isn’t best for your health. Luckily, there are some great ways to keep you warm even though you don’t have a heater and in the process you may just improve the efficiency of your home.

Heating your home without using a heater

1. Close all the windows in your home properly. This does include ensuring that your storm windows have been installed and closed in place, if you have them. Windows need to be latched. Only open them during the day, if the temperature outside is higher than what it is in your home.

You will want to keep the windows air tight. You may even want to purchase removable plastic or window caulk to keep them sealed better. At a minimum, stuff a shirt or towel in front of any leaks.

2. Use clear, cheap shower curtains over windows that get sunlight. This will keep the cold air out and the warmth of the sun will help to heat your home without the cold air coming in. You can also use clear plastic sheets to cover the windows.

3. Put up Curtains. Using a set of heavy curtains may block the heavy drafts of air. Only open them when the sun is shining and be sure to close them when it is not.

4. Seal the Doors.Check the door frame and under the door. You could use a door sweep or weather stripping. Again, at the minimum, you can stuff a towel in the door’s bottom.

5. Let as much sun hit your house as possible. Check for any obstructions such as sheds or plants that may keep the rays of the sun from reaching your house. Remove any items that are leaning against the walls on the sunny side of your home. Be sure to put them back again at night to help with additional insulation.

6. Close off unused rooms. The closed door makes the room a barrier between you and the cold outdoors. It will also stop the air from circulating around as much, which reduces the loss of heat.  There are home improvement stores that will sell register covers that are magnetic that will shut off the registers in the unused rooms. So, when you do use a heater, it will only register in the rooms that you use and will pump the heat out there. This makes it more efficient use of your heater.

Be sure to check that your heat registers are open, especially where the plumbing pipes may freeze. Unblock any cold air returns in the heated rooms, they could be blocked with a rug or furniture, so that heat may be circulated efficiently.

7. Put down a carpet or Rug. Carpets and rugs help to prevent heat loss through the floor. They are normally warmer to touch than stone or wood, and they also offer a warmer surface to walk on.

8. Add insulation to the crawl space and attic. A whole lot of air actually goes through the roof of the attic, simply because cold air sinks and warm air rises. You want to make sure that your attic has plenty of insulation.  Click here for: Phoenix Valley insulation contractor services. 

9. Start a warm fire. If you happen to have a fire place, then you can heat your home by having a fire. If you don’t have a fireplace, you may want to consider installing one. Be sure to always supervise the fire when it is lit.

10. Cook. Cooking can help you to stay warm as it is an activity, and through the warmth of the oven and eating something warm and tasty after.

Bake pies or cookies. The over will help to dry the air and heat up the house a bit. Only leave your oven on for about 20 minutes so that you don’t waste energy.

You will want to limit any cooking that causes any steam, as this actually increases the humidity that is in the air which will make the house damp. Lowering the humidity in winter will help you to feel warmer. Water vapor or humidity will have the ability to absorb heat instead of dry air. So, the result is that humid air will feel quite cold in winter than dry air which means that it will take more heat to make damp air even feel comfortable.

11. Light candles. A single candle or multiple candles is able to produce a bunch of heat, be aware of where they happen to be placed and don’t leave them unattended. Going to a discount store or grocery store can provide you with plenty of candles for cheap. Use a candle heater. It won’t create as much heat as a real heater or fireplace, but it will create some warmth for cheap.

12. Turn on some lights. A regular incandescent light bulb will release up to 95% energy as a heat instead of light, which make it really efficient heat source.

LED lights and compact fluorescent lights aren’t helpful when it comes to warming a room, so save those for warmer days and use the money that you saved to pay your heating bill.

Staying Warm in a Colder House

1. Drink Warm beverages. A warm beverage will raise the core temperature of your body. This process can be relaxing as well as stimulating. Make yourself a cup of coffee or tea. Sip on warm broth.

2. Dress Warmly. A lot of people will state that you release most of your body heat from your head, but despite this common belief, you actually release heat equally throughout the body. Either way, a hat is a great friend in times like this. A onesie, or turtleneck sweater are also wonder workers. Dress yourself in layers, especially in cotton or wool clothing. Wear warm socks or slippers. Whenever you are sitting still, wrap yourself in a pure wool, thick blanket. You may even want to purchase thermal shirts to wear under a sweater, which makes for a really comfortable shirt which provides a lot of warmth.

If you are getting cold legs, purchase the 2 pack of tights from the local store. You want to make sure that they are opaque. Wear one or even multiple pairs over each other and place them under clothes. This provides your body with another layer of clothing that will trap warm air inside. Men may use thermal long-johns instead of tights or stockings.

3. Use smaller rooms. If you happen to have a bedroom that is much smaller than your regular living room, then you can choose to use your bedroom as a bedroom and sitting room.

4. Exercise. Just 20 minutes of vigorous exercise can actually warm you up and keep you warm for a while after you are done. Not to mention that a healthy body is more tolerant to the cold.

Be active. Moving around will produce body heat. The more active that you are, the better circulation of your blood. This means that your warm blood will get to your toes and fingers and keeps them warm.

5. Find a pet or friend to snuggle with. The living body of any one is a furnace. Snuggle with your friend or your pet to keep each other warm.

6. Use a hair Dryer. Quickly heat parts of your body or use it to warm up your cold clothes or shoes before you put them on. You may even use it to warm your bed before you get in it. Never cover the hair dryer as it could overheat and cause a fire.

7. Sit on heating pads. Rather than just heating your whole room or house, use a heating pad. You may even make a heating pad:

Use a hot water bottle which is great for warming your lap and hands when sitting. You can also place hot water bottles at the end of the bed under the covers to warm up sheets.

Microwave your socks or small homemade heat packs that are filled with dried corn, beans, or rice for a minute in the microwave and use them as a bed warmer or heating pad.

8. Buy a thick dressing gown or bathrobe. Think of it a huge fluffy blanket that has sleeves. They are comfortable and warm and you can even sleep in them.

9. Go vacationing or visiting. Purposefully spend time in locations that are heated at no cost to you such as the church, library, or a friend’s house, etc.

10. Consider using an electric blanket. Electric blankets can keep your comfortable and warm in the night and it is much more economical than using an expensive and inefficient wall heater. Over the knee versions for sitting are also available and normally they are covered with a fluffy, warm and nice fabric.

11. Purchase a sleeping bag. You don’t have to camp to be able to use a sleeping bag. A sleeping bag will be able to warm you while you are at home. Place your sleeping bag on the bed to keep your insulated and warm all night.

Preventative Measures

1. Consider how you got into this position. If you are dealing with a cold house because of an energy blackout, then the above tips can help you to get through this short term emergency. However, if you are living with a nonworking heater because you are low on funds to pay for heat repairs, then you will need to begin saving money for this type of emergency. Put money back so that you can get through all and any emergencies as they come up. Don’t leave yourself in the cold.

2. If you are unable to afford to heat your home, contact energy suppliers. They may be able to work with you to find a payment plan that you can afford. Additionally, you may also be eligible for federal assistance to help pay off your heating bill.

Phoenix Valley Insulation Contractors

If you’re interested in saving energy during the cold months and all year long Barrier Insulation can help!  Our team can help you evaluate what insulation you have and what needs to be done to make your home energy efficient.  With ever rising utility costs the importance of insulation has never been higher.  Quality insulation which is installed by professionals will help you save money year in and year out.  If you’d like to find out what we can do to help you stay warm in winter and cool in summer, please give us a call at 602-499-2922.

Spray Foam Insulation Vs Fiberglass Insulation
Written by Barrier Insulation

Spray Foam Insulation Vs. Fiberglass Insulation

Most homeowners are faced with deciding which is better, Spray Foam Insulation Vs. Fiberglass Insulation.  Whether it’s a new home you’re building or an older home where you’re removing insulation and installing a better alternative, you want to know you’re making the best decision.  Two popular options in Arizona are spray foam insulation and fiberglass insulation.  Both of these options are installed between studs in attics and inside walls.

New Insulation = Big Savings

The U.S. Dept of Energy stated that a lot of older homes have damaged, inadequate, or improper insulation when compared with homes today.  They went on to state that new insulation can pay for itself in just a few years.  This is especially true for homes in areas that experience extreme heat or cold.

Pros & Cons of Spray Foam Insulation

Spray foam insulation is unique in that not only does it act as an insulation barrier, but expands into tiny gaps and cracks.  This seals off many of your home’s air leaks, to keep you cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  Open cell spray foam expands to an incredible 100 times its original volume in just seconds.

The primary components of spray foam are an organic chemical compound made from petroleum extracts and water.  It is mixed and blown onto the inner wall and attic surfaces to seal the home and insulate it.

Pros of spray foam:

These are just a few of the pros for spray foam insulation.

  • Rated for fire safety for walls and attics
  • It’s an environmentally safe insulation
  • Spray foam doesn’t attract insects or pests
  • Will not retain water from roof leaks
  • Helps create a semi conditioned space in attic
  • Seals off air leaks to help reduce energy bills

Cons of Spray Foam:

Spray foam insulation does cost more than traditional insulation up front, yet it is a more effective insulation option.  Over time the difference will get paid back with superior performance.

  • Spray foam costs more up front
  • Spray foam must be installed by a pro
  • Some brands might have an odor for a short time

Pros & Cons of Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass insulation has been installed in homes for many decades.  It is comprised of extremely fine glass fibers which reinforce a pillow like plastic.  The fine glass is added to increase the overall strength of the insulation and help it resist sagging.  It usually comes in one of 3 types, loose fill, rolls, or batts.

Pros of Fiberglass:

Fiberglass insulation has the advantage of being relatively easy to install and simply costs less than spray foam.

  • Works well if the attic or walls are common stud construction
  • It costs less than spray foam insulation
  • Experienced handy men may be able to install it themselves

Cons of Fiberglass:

While it might be easy to install it simply doesn’t seal off your home from air leaks and isn’t as efficient.  In addition there are some health and safety concerns in handling the insulation and a potential for mold in the insulation if your roof leaks.

  • Fiberglass has tiny glass fibers that may be released when touched and inhaled
  • It can trap moisture, dust, and allergens which lead to mold or poor indoor air quality
  • Safety equipment must be used for installation or at any time it must be disturbed
  • Inhaled fibers may cause respiratory ailments, nosebleeds, and coughing
  • The fibers also can cause incredible itchiness, irritation, or even rashes
  • Fiberglass insulation does not seal off air leaks, a major source of energy loss

Which Insulation Is Right For My Home?

Which insulation you choose will be based largely on a few key factors.  Your budget for installing insulation is one of these key factors.  Another consideration is how long you intend on staying in the home.  If you plan this house as your last move, then the added cost of installing premium insulation will pay you back for years to come.

If you are planning on moving soon you may still consider spray foam insulation as it will increase the overall value of the home.  Ultimately the question of which will be best for you, your home, and your budget is a conversation for you and your professional insulation contractor.

 

Cheap Ways To Heat A Room
Written by Barrier Insulation

Cheap Ways To Heat A Room

With cooler weather on the way in the Phoenix Valley a lot of people are searching for “cheap ways to heat a room”.  Saving money on heating the house during the winter is just as important as reducing utilities during the summer.

1. Use The Sun

During summer we use shutters, blinds,  and awnings to keep the sunlight and heat out of our homes.  When the cold comes you can take advantage of the free heat pouring through your windows.  When the sun is out your window treatments should be open to let in as much warmth as possible.

2. Trap Heat With Curtains

If it isn’t sunny or when night comes you should keep as much of the day’s heat inside your room and home by installing and closing heavy curtains.

3. Seal Air Gaps

Any warm air you have won’t stay that way if there are air gaps letting it out, and cold air in.  Common places for air gaps will be around windows and doors.  These areas should be sealed up by caulking around windows and using weather seal around door frames.  If you have other air gaps in the walls of your home spray foam insulation can seal them up, once and for all.

4. Shut The Chimney Flue

If you have a wood burning fireplace there is a flue which can be closed to prevent your warm air from escaping.  The flue generally has a handle that can be moved to open and close it.  Whenever your fireplace is not in use the flue should be closed.  If you aren’t going to use  your fireplace at all you can put a chimney balloon in it to seal off the air passage.  Just make sure if you decide to use the fireplace you remove the balloon and make sure the flue is open!  You can also use a chimney block that’s available at your local hardware stores.

5. Improve Insulation

Getting heat in home is easy by either using the sun or by using your home’s heater.  You will use your heater less if you have proper home insulation.  You can add new insulation to your attic and walls to improve your home’s energy efficiency. With the right insulation in Arizona and enough sunlight during the winter you will use your heater less, or even in some cases not at all.

6. Cooking Heats The Home

It’s not just less expensive and healthier to cook at home, but it also will heat the house.  If you’ve ran your oven to bake a cake, pizza, or cook up some bacon you can leave the door open when you’re done to heat the kitchen.  While this can’t be done if there are toddlers or children, it is great for other families. Just switch the oven off and once you’re done in the kitchen you can swing the door open and put the heat to a second use!

7. Put Down A Fuzzy Rug

If you have bare floors or thin carpet you can help insulate your rooms with thick fuzzy rugs.  Not only is the fabric warmer to walk on but it also helps keep heat in the rooms by preventing it from going through floorboards.  Some studies have shown that as much as 10% of heat can escape through hardwood flooring.

8. Don’t Run Heaters All Day

Use timers to automatically switch heaters on for you when you’ll be coming home from work.  Coming home and cranking the heat all the way up to heat the house more quickly will also inflate your utility bill.  During especially cold periods of time just set a timer to kick the heat on a little earlier so your home can gently heat up.  Automatic thermostats like the Nest thermostat can also help automatically learn your needs and create a plan to save money and keep your comfortable.

9. Adjust Ceiling Fans

Most ceiling fans have two settings, one for summer and one for winter.  For cooler weather its important to set your fans to pull cool air up and mix with rising heat to keep the room comfortable. You’ll be able to see the direction of the fan blades.  For winter you want the leading edge that’s “cutting the air” to be on the lower edge, and is cut upwards.  For summer you do the opposite and it pushes the air down as a draft.

10. Dress Warm & Use Blankets

To keep warm as you’re enjoying your evenings and once you go to bed you can just dress warmer and use blankets.  Insulating your body is just as important as insulating your home.  If it is especially cold you can dress in layers to ensure you’re comfortable. Flannel and wool are both popular types of fabric for winter clothing as they do the best job at reflecting our body heat back to us.

Phoenix Valley Insulation Contractors

If you live in the Phoenix Valley and want to stay warm and save money on utilities, we can help!  We are your Phoenix Valley Insulation Contractors providing all types of insulation services.  We provide insulation removal, spray foam insulation, batt insulation, loose fill insulation, and radiant barrier installation to Phoenix Valley homeowners.  We will help keep your home more comfortable in every season and help reduce the need to run your heat in winter and AC in summer.  Take the barrier challenge and see how much you could be saving on your utilities!

What Is Retrofitting?
Written by Barrier Insulation

What Is Retrofitting?

Have you heard “retrofit insulation” or “retrofitting with insulation”? If you have, you are most likely wondering what it means and we are here to tell you. So, what is retrofit insulation? Retrofitting a building or home with insulation is basically just re-insulating it.

New construction insulation normally is referring to the insulation that happens to be installed during the construction of a building or home. It is much easier and cost effective to insulate a building or home that is being built, but there are times that retrofit insulation is needed as insulation can settle over time. It could also be installed incorrectly, and if that is the case, then you will have to upgrade it later to be able to enjoy the benefits such as a more comfortable home year round and energy savings.

Existing Home Insulation

If you happen to be building a custom home, that is one thing that you will be most likely asked about. But if you happen to be moving into a home that was built before then 1970s, then there is a really good chance that it isn’t insulated or it doesn’t actually have enough insulation.

How can you tell if you need retrofit insulation?

You may need retrofit insulation if you notice that your energy bills have been really increasing, the temperatures in each room of your house aren’t uniform, and your home is drafty.

While these aren’t all of the signs that will indicate that you need to have your home reinsulated, they are the easiest ones to look for.

Materials that are used for retrofitting insulation

Retrofit insulation isn’t very different than new construction insulation when it comes to material types that can be used. You can use any type of material to upgrade your building’s or homes’ insulation:

  • Radiant barrier insulation
  • Foam insulation
  • Fiberglass insulation
  • Cellulose insulation

Radiant barrier insulation

The insulation type that you install will depend on various factors like the HVAC system that you have, type of attic, and much more. Sometimes, you will need to install 2 different types of insulation. For instance, radiant barrier insulation can be installed within the attic right under the floor, but for other areas of your home like the walls, it may need to have thermal insulation such as fiberglass or cellulose insulation. For the specifics about your situation, then you need to talk to a professional.

Retrofit Insulation: Superinsulation

What is superinsulation? This is an approach to building design and retrofitting that will really reduce heat loss and gain by using the right insulation amount and energy efficient air tight construction.

Just like always, it is best to talk to a professional. They will be able to help you to find out what type of insulation you should install, where it should be installed, and how much you will need. They will also be familiar with regulations and codes.

Do you need to re-insulate your home?

If you need to have retrofit insulation installed, or you just want to learn more about insulation for your existing home, then contact us today. We will be able to re-insulate your building or home as well as help you to begin saving money on your energy bills.  Take our Barrier Challenge, which is a 5 point energy audit for your office of home.  It is guaranteed to help save you money, and the planet at the same time!  Insulation retrofitting will help your older home enjoy today’s insulation benefits, save you on utilities, and help you stay more comfortable all year long.

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